Steve Overseas: Ume Blossoms In Mito

Early March is when the ume plum trees blossom. They flower just at the end of winter as spring starts to warm up. Ume trees are very significant in Japanese culture. They are seen as a kind of symbol for long life and sagely wisdom. Through the cold winter months, their baren gnarled bodies look dead, but they are the first to blossom starting a new cycle of life. These trees can grow a very long time and they show their age by twisting and winding their branches out. As such this gnarled look is revered and often cultivated. Unlike the sakura cherry blossom trees that grow naturally, some gardeners prune the branches and replant ume trees to foster the gnarled look.

The fruit of the ume tree, the ume boshi, is also remarkable. The trees produce fruit in June and are a traditional snack in Japan. With only salt as a preservative ume boshi can last a hundred years. They have a strong sour, salty taste. They became popular for samurai to grow and a perfect food for on the go, and quickly became popular throughout the rest of Japan.

There is a fun anecdote about the deity Tenjin, while still in his human form as Michizane. Michizane was a beloved scholar and poet, but his political enemies conspired to have him banished from Kyoto. On the night before he left he gave such a beautiful poem to his favorite ume tree that after his death, the tree flew through the air and rooted itself next to his grave, to be with its dear friend again. And it is said that is the first ume tree to blossom in Japan every year.

My friend Lauren and I went to Mito to see the ume blossoms in Kairakuen park. The park was 300 hectors, the second largest public park in the world, second only to Central Park in New York city. There were over 3,000 ume trees. The oldest was over 180 years old. Shortly after we arrived we were fortunate to be approached by a English speaking guide. She took us through the park and an old manor house on the grounds. She was very informative.