Lunch With Lum, At The Urusei Yatsura Cafe

The week before I went out to Tokyo for the Urusei Yatsura cafe. It was a really fun time! The food and drinks were delicious and there were so many interesting things to see. The cafe will be open only til the end of the month, so anyone in Tokyo and inclined to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Urusei Yatsura it's worth checking out!

Ume Blossoms In Mito

Early March is when the ume plum trees blossom. They flower just at the end of winter as spring starts to warm up. Ume trees are very significant in Japanese culture. They are seen as a kind of symbol for long life and sagely wisdom. Through the cold winter months, their baren gnarled bodies look dead, but they are the first to blossom starting a new cycle of life. These trees can grow a very long time and they show their age by twisting and winding their branches out. As such this gnarled look is revered and often cultivated. Unlike the sakura cherry blossom trees that grow naturally, some gardeners prune the branches and replant ume trees to foster the gnarled look.

The fruit of the ume tree, the ume boshi, is also remarkable. The trees produce fruit in June and are a traditional snack in Japan. With only salt as a preservative ume boshi can last a hundred years. They have a strong sour, salty taste. They became popular for samurai to grow and a perfect food for on the go, and quickly became popular throughout the rest of Japan.

There is a fun anecdote about the deity Tenjin, while still in his human form as Michizane. Michizane was a beloved scholar and poet, but his political enemies conspired to have him banished from Kyoto. On the night before he left he gave such a beautiful poem to his favorite ume tree that after his death, the tree flew through the air and rooted itself next to his grave, to be with its dear friend again. And it is said that is the first ume tree to blossom in Japan every year.

My friend Lauren and I went to Mito to see the ume blossoms in Kairakuen park. The park was 300 hectors, the second largest public park in the world, second only to Central Park in New York city. There were over 3,000 ume trees. The oldest was over 180 years old. Shortly after we arrived we were fortunate to be approached by a English speaking guide. She took us through the park and an old manor house on the grounds. She was very informative.

This is the oldest ume tree in Kairakuen park, over 180 years old. Displayed by our friendly tour guide.

The only original surviving gate in Kairakuen park.

The first elevator in Japan.

Hinamatsuri in Sawara

March 3rd is Hinamatsuri (Doll Festival). The oldest traditions have people making dolls of paper or wood to absorb illness or bad luck. People would rub the dolls on themselves and then float the dolls down a river in small boats. Eventually the tradition shifted to displaying special dolls (hina dolls) and celebrating the health and happiness of young girls. This March 6th I went to Sawara, an old world river town. They still celebrate the traditional way but unfortunately I was not able to be there for that day. But I was able take a walking tour of the city. Throughout the city historical and culturally significant spots set up displays of dolls. I start off heading to the port. I arrived early and started heading East. I passed the city firemen training in the morning, other walking tours heading the opposite direction, and some interesting monuments. At the port they had the parade float of a giant fish made with rice straw.

Leaving the port I started heading south, towards the center of old town. Where the next stop was the Sawara City museum. The staff there was friendly and offered me some literature in English. The building itself was interested as it was an old bank. One of the display rooms was in the vault. In the museum all sorts of memorabilia of the past, and scale models of the Edo period shops.

Heading East again I circle up to take a peak at a bonus museum. This museum was of the parade floats. They had two of the floats on display and some of the older floats that are no longer in use. It was really interested to wander around. Plus as a bonus, as I had signed up for the walking tour, I got free admission.

It was a long distance south to the next stop. The mysterious Kanpukuji temple. Up until I was standing in front of the entrance this massive temple was completely hidden from view. I could not find the hina doll display that was supposed to be there. But I met a nice couple and we talked for a bit. Over the course of this tour I ended up talking with quite a few people, most just curious of where I am from.

I met some other friendly people at my next stop. And this fellow spoke English too! It was very nice chatting, turns out he has been to Chicago. From Kanpukuji temple, heading west, back to the old town I visit the Inoh Tadataka museum and his old manor. I was not allowed to photograph in the museum. Inoh Tadataka (1745-1818) was a fascinating person. He was a surveyor and cartographer. Known for being the first person to map Japan using modern cartography techniques.

From Inoh Tadataka's house I continued west to the sake brewery. This was an impressive ancient business that is still thriving today. The building had the sweetest, most pleasant smell to it as I walked through.

Before heading back to the train station I stop off at a small family owned restaurant. I ordered tanuki udon. Tanuki are indigenous raccoon-dog animals, that are believed to have magical, shape shifting abilities. So the name intrigued me, and what I got was surprising, it looked like they added rice crispys to my udon! Tanuki udon actually had little bits of fried tempura in it, it was apparently a tanuki's favorite meal! At the train station was the last hina doll display. This walking tour took me four and a half hours. It was so fun and interesting! Sawara has been such a great town to visit.